La queue est un accessoire extrêmement important pour toutes les petgirls et tous les petboys.
Il en existe bien peu sur le marché.
C’est pourquoi « Les anges déchues » en proposent plusieurs modèles qui seront détaillés en bas de ce texte.
J’ai trouvé sur un site internet ce guide permettant de réaliser soit même des queues:
Voici le texte:
The plug-tail-tutorial « In my opinion it is very important for a doggygirl to have a tail. She can wag it when she’s happy, let it hang down when she’s afraid and point it upwards when she greets her master.
Furthermore it reminds her of her role as doggy and greatly adds to her aesthetic appeal as a petgirl. So I’ve created this short tutorial of ‘how to make a doggygirl-plugtail’. It’s easy, it really sticks out of her butt, and it is at the same time a great personal present for your submissive. » « I think that cute doggies like Master Hiro’s Kayo, or French Master’s Yu (my regards to all of them) would look great walking around with this tail. » A selfmade doggygirl-plugtail Why this tutorial? Getting a nice collar and leash for your doggygirl isn’t difficult, you can get these in anywhere. It’s more difficult to get something resembling paws or a doggycostume. And it’s really hard if you want to buy a good-looking doggy-plugtail. From my point of view, a (doggy-)tail is of great importance as symbolic, aesthetic and training utensil for a doggygirl. So here’s a short tutorial as an alternative to a non-existent commerical offer. Drawbacks: Does require some work and a small amount of skill. The furcover will easily draw lubricant and get messy because there’s no plugbase to shield it. The whole of the plugtail isn’t washable because of the multilayered saran-wrap; you won’t get humidity or lubricant out once it’s inside. You counteract the principle of capitalism in producing something unique by yourself and take part in ruining your country’s economy.
Advantages: Color, pattern, and kind of fur used for the cover is up to your choice (respectively depends on the range of fabrics of your department store). Diameter, length, length of neck and hardness of the plugpart can be made to the preference (or experience) of your doggygirl. A new plugtail with different specifications can be built easily and quickly. With some skill you can vary the shape of the plug; not only the usual cone-shape, but also rounded cylinders, acorns, ovoids are possible -- or something ranging from a Chihuahua to a St.Bernhard. A plugtail of this kind can be built (assuming a minimum of skills) in less than an hour. The base-materials are low-cost, so you can try again and again if you’re not pleased with your achievment -- or want a whole collection of tails. A well-made plugtail, nicely wrapped, is a very personal gift for your doggygirl/partner. By all means more personal than a commercial plug. If it’s done well, the plugtail will look quite professional and convincing. The furcover can be removed to be washed separately with lukewarm soapwater. The tailpart really STICKS OUT of your doggygirl’s butt -- if it’s not crafted too heavy. Watch her when your doggy is prone on shoulders and slightly spread knees, arching her back -- you’ll definitely see what I mean (get a cold shower first, though). By the way: Wagging is easier for her and more convincing, too. Alternatively you can use this plugtail as exclusive throwing toy (throwing ranges of more than 30m are possible), as low-cost adornment for your car-antenna, or as convenient cleaning device for radiators.
The Veterinarian
Needed base-materials: a roll of paper towels (for the tailpart) a roll of quality toilet paper (for the plugtail) A roll of saran-wrap/cling-film; it should be incised with the paper knife for a separate roll of 5cm width, so you’ve got a narrow and a broad roll of wrap Needle and quality thread Scissoirs (for fabric, thread, tube and wrap) Paper knife (for wrap-incision and trimming the tube) Some balloons, color of your choice A PVC or rubber tube with a diameter of about 1.0-1.2 cm, bought from an aquarium-supplier (zoo-shop) or cut from your garden hose. You should round and trim the edges with the paper knife, especially when using tubes of firmer made
A piece of fur-fabric, used for teddybears or costumes, measuring about 10-14cm x 30-50cm
Trim one end of the fur-cloth to a slightly oval shape, so there will be a tapering end when the sewing is done. Measure the thread so it’s length is about three times the length of the fur-cloth. Double this if you sew with two parallel running threads (recommended)
For multicolored fur-covers (i.e. a foxtail, look at last picture on this page) just sew different fur-clothes together giving them the above described slightly tapering shape in the end.
Do the sewing from the open to the closed end. The fur-cloth has to be inside-out for this, that means fur is on the inside!
Use the following formula to estimate the diameter of the finished furcover: (cloth-width -- (2 x sewing cloth-surplus)) : 3 = diameter
Example: A piece of fur-cloth with a width of 11cm would end up as fur-tube with a diameter of about 3.5 cm (11cm -- (2 x 0.5 cm)): 3
Do the sewing from the open to the closed end. The fur-cloth has to be inside-out for this, that means fur is on the inside!
Use the following formula to estimate the diameter of the finished furcover: (cloth-width -- (2 x sewing cloth-surplus)) : 3 = diameter
Example: A piece of fur-cloth with a width of 11cm would end up as fur-tube with a diameter of about 3.5 cm (11cm -- (2 x 0.5 cm)): 3
I recommend this mode of sewing, with a a space of about 0.5 cm between seam and end of cloth, and also 0.5 cm between stitches. For extra durability use two parallel threads while sewing; to do this, don’t fix the thread on the needle’s eye but let two loose ends hang down from it and do the knot at the ends of the thread.
Keep in mind: The length of the thread is about the length of the seam times three. If you use two parallel threads, it will be of course length of seam times six.
The finished furcover. Later on we make the tailpart fitting to it’s length.
The stabilising spine of the plugpart is the tube. The edges of the tube’s ends, especially the one inside the plug, should be trimmed and rounded with the paper-knife, especially when the tube is made from harder material!
The tube don’t have to have the length of the oveall length of the finished plugtail. It suffices when it’s about 2-3 times the length of the planned plugpart, so the center of mass will be closer to the plug.
If the tube’s curving is too annoying, you can straighten it out with a very tightly rolled long piece of paper, stuffed into the tube.
Before beginning to work on the plugpart, cover the tube with several layers of saran-wrap. This will heighten the friction for following layers.
Shape the body of the plug by firmly -- but cautiously, don’t let it rip -- wrapping it with toilet tissues. The plug’s end of the tubing shouldn’t be felt anymore through the wraps of the tissue! Some further hints:
To get a kind of ‘knot’ at the end of the plugpart, turn the roll of toilet paper repeatedly around for 180 degrees (as seen on the photo). This turnover will each time give the tissue a doubled, firmer layer.
Don’t plan the plugpart to be longer than 10 cm for your first tries. Later on the pulling over of the balloons will be easier.
Discover the artist in you: Have fun in trying to replicate an actual dog member… I’ve tried to give this sample vaguely the shape of an Alsatian / German Shepherd dog.
Wrap the tissue-shaped plugpart repeatedly with the broader part of the saran-wrap, compressing and stabilizing it on the way. Give the roll a firm pull when moving it around the plug. After some turns include the whole tubing in the layering, so the plugpart will become an integral part of the plugtail and won’t come off when under stress.
If you can’t move the plugpart relatively to the tubing, even with some strength, you’ve done good work!
o keep the neck of the plug slender, use the narrower part of the saran-wrap, firmly pulling it around the tissue, compressing it.
The neck of the plug will later on be gripped by your doggygirl’s sphincter, and a slender neck will be more comfortable when she’s required to wear the plugtail for a longer time.
Another advantage: The greater the ratio of the diameters of the plug’s neck to the plug’s end, the easier it is for your doggygirl to keep it in place.
Give the neck a length of about 2-4 cm; but I recommend the actual comfortable length to be explored by try-and-error.
An opportunity to even out the plug’s surface: Use the narrow saran-wrap to fill up sinks and to compress bulges
The finished plugpart
The spine of the tailpart is mainly a loose roll of saran-wrap, about the length of the fur-cover. Try to avoid to make the tailpart too dense and therefore too heavy. Heavy tailparts tend to hang down -- or to turn the plugpart around once it’s inside your doggygirl.
The soft, voluminous body of the tailpart is achieved by loosely wrapped layers of paper-towels. You should give the roll some 180 degree turnovers (as seen here, notice the folding on the left side of the paper towels), too, to get a thicker layered section at the plugpart.
To give the tailpart some firmness wrap the loose layers of paper-towels with saran-wrap, giving them some density in the process. Don’t overdo it, though. If you find the tailpart too slim for the furcover, just repeat layering some paper-towels and saran-wrap until it fits nicely.
The diameter of the compressible core of the tailpart can and should be slightly larger than the inner diameter of the furcover -- for a better fit.
Finally wrap and shape the neck of the plug with some of the narrower saran-wrap -- and you’re done with the plugtail’s interior. (If this looks a little bit too improvised to you, try -- if you’ve got the skill -- to coat the whole interior with some layers of liquid rubber or latex.)
Take the furcover and, like shown on the photo, press in the closed end of it for about 4-5 cm. This will make the initial pulling over easier.
Now pull the furcover over the tailpart like you would with a condom. There will be some pushing and pulling, but if the tail-interior has the right density and softness, it will be quite easy after the first 10 cm.
And finished. For detaching the fur-cover again, grab the closed end of it in a pincers grip and pull it off without turning it inside-out. For reattachment you’ve got to follow the earlier steps, though, that means turning it inside-out. Unfortunately the open end of the fur-cover is prone to come into contact with the lubricant on the plug or your doggygirl’s butthole -- there’s just no plugbase like on commercially available plugs. On the other side the tail sticks seamlessly and aesthetically quite pleasing directly out of your subs bottom. You probably have to wash out the detached fur-cover from time to time with lukewarm soapwater.
Now for the most difficult part of the whole operation…!
You could already use the plugtail as it is, but it will look nicer and more professional if you cover the plugpart with some balloons which protect and harden it. Another advantage is that no humidity will get inside the plug. To do this: Insert both index and middle finger deeply into a balloon (fingernails cut short and failed smooth), put the plugtail between your knees and pull the balloon over the plug, up to the beginning of the fur. If body and neck of the plugpart is longer than 10cm (like in the example shown), it will become increasingly difficult after the first balloon-cover, because sliding rubber over rubber has to deal with very high friction.Keep some ballons in reserve; they tend to tear easily when used on bigger plugs.
The first ballon is put on; you can still see the plug’s profane ancestry of cheap saran-wrap and paper-towels shimmering through. This will diminish with the second and/or third ballon.
Done! Just fix the furcover with some loops of thread over the neck of the plug and the ballons, so the fur aesthetically ‘ends’ when reaching the plugpart, and don’t resemble a big, furry condom.
I strongly recommend the use of a sturdy condom, covering the plugpart up to the beginning of the fur. First, oil-based lubricants will weaken the rubber of the ballons, second you won’t have to clean the plug when it comes out of your doggygirls butt, especially when you’ve made a longer plugtail. (Of course you can clean your doggygirl with some enemas first) Have fun!the Veterinarian
Attention! Never use sharp-edged or pointed materials like wire or tin
- especially not for the interior -- for selfmade analtoys!
Never switch off your common sense!
Les plug tails ou dogbuds proposés par « les anges déchues »
Nous proposons des dogbuds de la plus grande qualité. En effet comme indiqué dans le texte précédent il existe très peu de queues destinées aux petgirls et aux petboys. Celles-ci sont de plus souvent assez ridicules, il s’agit souvent d’objet en plastique souple terminé par un simple plug anal.
Il fallait pouvoir proposer de accessoires de qualité permettant de rivaliser avec les jolis accessoires dédiés aux magnifiques pony girls.
Les dogbuds proposés devaient être jolis solides et parfaitement hygiéniques.
Tous les dogbuds proposés sont réalisés à partir de véritables rosebuds. Il s’agit donc d’objet de très grande qualité.
La partie pénétrante est constituée d’une pièce en acier inoxydable chirurgical parfaitement polie. Il est possible de porter le dogbud pendant plusieurs heures. La queue est semi rigide car elle est constituée d’un squelette métallique qui donne au toucher l’impression de sentir de véritables vertèbres. La rigidité de la queue diminue plus on s’éloigne de la partie pénétrante ce qui lui donne du mouvement comme une véritable queue. De plus, il est possible de donner la forme désirée à la queue dont la longueur est d’environ 45cm.
Comme le montre les photos, ces queues sont magnifiques. Il en existe deux qualités. Toutes réalisées avec le même soin.
Une qualité en fourrure véritable. Il s’agit en fait de mouton. Les couleurs proposées sont noires gold ou écrues
Une qualité un peu moins couteuse réalisée en fourrure synthétique mais tout aussi jolie. La couleur proposée est noire cendrée. Le prix est identique à celui des queues moins complexes réalisée à partir de rosebuds et destinées aux ponys girls.
La partie pénétrante est constituée d’un véritable « rosebud » bijoux créé par Julian Snelling. Elle existe en trois taille.
Le squelette métallique permet au dogbud de prendre la forme désirée tout en lui conférant une grande souplessse.
Une qualité un peu moins couteuses mais tout aussi jolie est réalisée en fourrure synthétique. La couleur proposée est noire cendrée. Elles sont également réalisées à partir de véritables rosebuds et le prix est identique à celui des queues moins complexes réalisées pour les pony girls puisqu’il est de 95 euros.
